Climate
The climate in the St.
Katherine area has large extremes. In winter snow often
covers the mountain tops, and can sometimes even be found in lower
areas. The mean minimum temperature down by the village is 1º
C, on the top of the mountains -4º C and it can reach a -14º
C. Winter for the local bedouins is the time when nothing moves.
Everyone stays indoors after the sun has gone behind the mountains.
Spring on the other hand is the time when people come together,
the birds return, the plants are a fresh green and blossom, the
fruit trees in the orchards blossom and the apricot ripens. Spring
is the time when there are pools of water, waterfalls and rivulets
of water everywhere in the mountain valleys. Most rainfall is in
the winter and early spring. It can be very local, one area can
have torrential rain while another area just on the other side of
a mountain has none. Summer days can be very warm (over
30º C ) but not insufferable. The evenings cool down and are
pleasant. In the summer white billowing clouds can still form giving
extra dimensions to the mountain landscape. Many bedouin families
move to their orchards higher up in the mountains. It is the busy
time: watering the trees, harvesting the fruits (grapes, almonds,
pomegranates, figs and more). But the climate is also more agreeable
in the higher regions. Autumn is the change of seasons.
Black clouds form with the promise of rain.
Geology
The upper Sinai massif,
a 1300 km2 mountain block with an elevation between 1500 and 2665
meters, contains worlds oldest rocks: a basement complex of granite
and volcanic materials formed 600 billion to 1 billion years ago
(precambrian) which was uplifted in the Miocene (25 -10 million
years ago). 80% of the mountain area is red ikna granite. In some
places this granite is overlaid with younger and darker rocks from
volcanic activity at the end of the Miocene. A circular dike of
dark volcanic rocks surround the red granite mountains. Among the
peaks created in this volcanic activity are Sinai's highest peaks
Mount Katherine and Mount Sinai.
Red and black rock types
create different environments. In black areas plants germinate and
complete their life circles earlier. The black environments are
hotter and harsher. But the black rock area breaks into smaller
rocks easier, making the soil-rock ratio higher than the red granite
area. The black rock area holds water after rainfall better and
melting snow soaks into the soil, instead of running of the (red
granite) mountain face. In red granite area plants only grow in
rock crevices where soil has collected. Here the water from rainfall
that has run off the granite face collects and saturates the soils
below.
Dikes, a linear intrusion
of soft igneous rock in harder parent rock, are more porous than
the ground around it, acting as a sponge and conduit for water.
Bedouins recognize that reddish coloured dikes are softer and more
likely to yield water than blackish, harder, less porous dikes.
They have known for centuries that the best place to dig a well
is where a red dike crosses the wadi floor.
Flora & Fauna
Variation of rock type,
relief, altitude and water availability provide a large range of
plant habitats. There are roughly 3 plant regions in the high mountain
area:
- Sahara-indian, in wadi's below
1300 meters
- Mediterranean-Central Asiatic,
in red granite habitats between 1300 and 2000 meters
- Central Asiatic Steppe vegetation,
in black volcanic areas above 1600 meters.
The Saint Katherine Protectorate
area (4350 km2) has 316 plant species, of which 19 are endemic.
47% of the plants have medicinal, aromatic, cosmetic or culinary
uses as well as the usage as fodder and fuel. Nearly half of the
species are vulnerable or endangered. An unknown amount of species
have already been lost in recent years. The St, Katherine Protectorate
and the Conservation and Sustainable Use of Medicinal Plants Project
aims to conserve and protect the species inside its boundaries.
The situation of animal
populations is harder to measure as animals are more difficult to
track down. Most animals depend on camouflage, rapid escape or a
nocturnal activity to avoid detection. So partly one has to rely
on stories told by bedouins about the numbers of gazelle and ibex
one used to encounter, accidental meetings with wolves and hyenas,
stories about leopard hunts etc. It has become clear through these
stories that the numbers of mainly mammals have diminished rapidly
and some have become extinct.
Foxes, of course, like
elsewhere around the world have managed to adapt and are even becoming
a menace and pest in inhabited areas. The bedouins are complaining
of foxes eating most of the grapes from the orchards and other fruits
that are low to the ground, and killing chicken and young goats.
Also wild donkeys have become a menace in some areas, eating plants
to close to the ground so they can't form shoots and also attacking
people if they come to close.
Birds are easier to detect.
A common and easily detectable bird in the lower areas of St. Katherine
is the white crowned wheatear: A distinct black bird the size of
a lark with a white cap (the adult males) and white rump. Another
common bird, the size of a magpie, is the Tristram's Grackle, a
black bird with chestnut wings and a striking song.
Of the reptiles most common
is the fan footed gecko, often found in or around houses, that can
make very loud, intense sounds. The Sinai agama can be seen regularly
basking in the sun on a rock, its head turns a bright blue after
being in the sun for a long time.
The Jabaliya
The Jabaliya are not true
bedouins in the sense that they cannot claim ancestry to one of
the 12 sons of Ishmael. They are descendants from some 200 families
from Alexandria, Walachia (S. Romania), Bosnia and Anatolia. In
527 AD Emperor Justinian sent some 100 families from eastern Europe
to help build the monastery. Egypt's governor Theodosius sent another
100 from Alexandria. These people intermarried with the local bedouin
tribe. Between 1517 and 1520 Ottoman Sultan Salim I sent a group
of muslims from the Nile Delta to provide security for the monastery.
These troops also mixed mixed with the locals adding to the ethnic
mix of the Jabaliya. The Jabaliya were the labourers of the monastery
, taking care of the orchards, cooking , taking care of the maintenance
of the monastery. But they also developed a family and cultural
life independent of the monastery. The relationship with the monastery
has diminished to a minimum after Egypt regained control over the
Sinai and the bedouins fell under government rule.
Today, all Jabaliya are
muslims. The first who converted were in 700 AD. But it wasn't until
the 16th century that all of them had converted.
Like other bedouin tribes
the Jabaliya have come to know their environment well, being dependant
on what the desert has to offer, acquiring a excellent knowledge
of the plants in the environment and their use. But unlike the other
bedouin tribes they have also acquired information about agricultural
techniques from the Byzantine Christians. They have become masters
in the technique of grafting, experimenting with wild and domestic
trees. So actually the Jabaliya are more agriculturalists than nomads,
living mainly off the harvest of their orchards. They do keep a
small amount of livestock, goats and sheep, which are taken out
in spring and summer to graze on the mountain slopes.
Their lifestyle, like the
lifestyle of other bedouins, is changing. Many orchards lie abandoned.
The people have turned to tourism as a main means of income, and
many have left their home environment take jobs elsewhere. Luckily
there are still many who have retained their love for the environment
they live in and a love for growing and cultivating their orchards.
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